24 Oct 2018
In September, MSC Missons Office Director Fr Michael O’Connell MSC walked the Camino de Santiago for the first time. Walking approximately 113 km over five days, Fr Michael undertook the final stage of the Camino Francés, or the French Way. Here, he shares his daily diary with thoughts and reflections from the Way.
Friday, September 28th
Palas de Rei to Ribadiso
Distance: 25.6 km
“As I walked along on the third morning of my Camino journey, I heard the unexpected sound of music playing at the crossing of a stream. On reaching the other side, a young lady came into view, playing Spanish bagpipes. She was a busker, out in the middle of nowhere, and it was a wonderful surprise for a weary pilgrim!
I paused for a while at the church of Boente Cruce, where there was a beautiful sanctuary with peaceful music playing. My guide book recommended this church, noting that the parish priest is especially friendly – and there was certainly a warm welcome to be found here.
I found myself walking along a particularly scenic stretch, where I stopped to snap a picture of the view. It looks like an idyllic scene – but what you can’t tell from my photograph is that it’s right beside a motorway, so pilgrims can hear the traffic whizzing past as they walk. It didn’t bother me too much; it struck me as being a bit like life. I could choose to hear the traffic and allow it to destroy my peace, or I could accept the noise as part of the hum and the energy of the place and enjoy the journey.
Finding peace alongside the noise of traffic on the walk from Palas de Rei to Ribadiso.
Finding peace alongside the noise of traffic on the walk from Palas de Rei to Ribadiso.
Finding peace alongside the noise of traffic on the walk from Palas de Rei to Ribadiso.
One thing I noticed along the journey was the struggles that some people had, and the way people helped each other. I saw one young man helping his elderly mother to walk the Way, and it was a joy to see them have such a special experience together. Some people were battling with real challenges, and their commitment to walking the path was amazing. There were people with bandages and strappings on their legs, and still, they were cheerful. That is an incredible element of the walk – the cheerfulness!
I stayed in Ribadiso da Baixo that evening, a hostel that was recently refurbished and opened to the public. It dates back hundreds of years and the location is stunning, next to a medieval bridge on the River Iso. It was a real treat to be able to bathe my feet in the stream after three days of walking. It’s not possible to pre-book a bed here – the first 62 pilgrims to arrive on any given day can claim a bed, and I was determined to be one of them! At just €6 a night, this hostel is non-profit-making, but is funded by the council and maintained by village volunteers.
The peaceful surroundings of Ribadiso da Baixo.
The peaceful surroundings of Ribadiso da Baixo.
The peaceful surroundings of Ribadiso da Baixo.
Hostel living is certainly an interesting part of the Camino experience. The smallest dormitory I was in slept around 10 or 12 people, while the largest had space for 130 people. When you arrive, you must claim your bunk and the space around it, while also respecting other people’s need for space, too. A big challenge is trying to charge your mobile phone – it’s a challenge of Christian charity not to leave your own electronics plugged in to charge all the time! The next job is to shower after the walk of the day, and then wash your clothes. All of the hostels along the Way are well-equipped with laundry services, costing just a few Euro for use of the washing machine and tumble dryer.
Of course, I found I had packed more than I needed – just as we often take too much with us in life. You think, I’ll need a shirt in the morning, a shirt in the afternoon, and a shirt in the evening. Then you find that actually, you don’t need all those clothes. I only need two, not three, or I can wash my shirts in the evening. We tend to live with a ‘wash one, wear one, spare one’ lifestyle, but I found I didn’t actually need the spare one; I could just wash one and wear one, and it worked away fine. Another lesson about carrying too much!
I had booked a room in a hostel nearby as a contingency plan, but luckily, I got to Ribadiso da Baixo early enough that I didn’t need it and was able to claim a bed there. I enjoyed a lovely dinner and an early night; the bar and restaurant were dead by 9.30pm. Everybody had gone to bed, ready for another early start the following day.”
Read more of Fr Michael’s Camino diary:
Fr Michael’s Camino Diary Day 1
Fr Michael’s Camino Diary Day 2
Fr Michael’s Camino Diary Day 4