23 Oct 2018
In September, MSC Missons Office Director Fr Michael O’Connell MSC walked the Camino de Santiago for the first time. Walking approximately 113 km over five days, Fr Michael undertook the final stage of the Camino Francés, or the French Way. Here, he shares his daily diary with thoughts and reflections from the Way.
Thursday, September 27th
Portomarín to Palas de Rei
Distance: 24.8 km
“Day 2 of my Camino journey got off to a dramatic start, with thunder and lightning crashing and rolling from 7.00am. The skies soon cleared, and my journey continued on a stretch of almost 25 km, from Portomarin to Palas de Rei.
On the road, I stopped off at a place called Bar Trisquel, where I wanted to buy some batteries for my CD player. The people who ran the shop didn’t understand what I was looking for, and eventually I showed them what I needed. As it happened, they didn’t sell batteries, but the shop assistant disappeared into the back and returned with two batteries, taken from one of their own gadgets.
This is just one example of the wonderful hospitality I experienced along the Way. Pilgrims are welcomed with open arms, and unlike popular tourist areas here in Ireland, nobody is out to rip you off. A cup of coffee costs around €1, a hearty lunch is about €5, and pilgrims can get a full three-course dinner for €10 – with a glass of wine included! Those you meet along the road are generally very welcoming, and the warmth of their kindness and hospitality – demonstrated perfectly by the gift of batteries – has stayed with me.
Giant sculptures of ants at the church of Vilar de Donas In A Paso de Formiga.
Giant sculptures of ants at the church of Vilar de Donas In A Paso de Formiga.
Giant sculptures of ants at the church of Vilar de Donas In A Paso de Formiga.
Once again, the scenery along the road was nothing short of breath-taking. Although it’s tempting to stop and drink it all in, it’s equally as important to keep moving, so you can hit your daily destination. It was a balancing act that put me in mind of finding balance in life itself. If I stopped and admired the scenery for too long, then I didn’t move along the path. I could have spent all day looking at the sun rising and setting, or sitting having a coffee, looking out a lovely landscape – but the work wouldn’t get done. It’s important to appreciate what’s around you, but if you lose yourself in it, you’re not moving forward.
In the evening, I went to the pilgrims’ Mass at a beautiful church in Palas de Rei. Here, Spanish signs asked what we were searching for on the Camino, with reminders to speak to and listen to God. Beneath these signs were little baskets containing slips of paper in different languages. These pieces of paper were printed with encouraging messages like ‘You are God’s precious one,’ and quotes from Scripture. They were a lovely thought to keep in your pocket and take with you along the Way, and this was a particularly nice way to end the day.”
Messages of encouragement for pilgrims on the Way.
A beautiful image at Fr Michael’s hostel in Palas de Rei.
“What are you searching for on the Camino?”
Read more of Fr Michael’s Camino diary:
Fr Michael’s Camino Diary Day 1